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september 12th, 2019
9:18 am

NOELANI STUCK HER ARMS IN THE WATER, feeling the lukewarm sea drench up to her biceps

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NOELANI STUCK HER ARMS IN THE WATER, feeling the lukewarm sea drench up to her biceps.

She straddled a long surfboard, painted with hibiscuses and flames as she observed the ocean in front of her.

Noelani adjusted her yellow bikini, feeling the last warmth of summer around her torso.

The beach behind her was empty, the only thing laying on the sand being her huge onyx tote bag.

A nagging voice at the back of her mind said:

You should be at school.

The nag repeated it over and over and over, almost like a gnat that you can't get rid of.

But as Noelani looked towards the blue ocean, the waves swallowing themselves, she couldn't bring herself to regret playing sick and traveling the hour from Napa to a beach in Bodega Bay.

Finally the wave she had been waiting for appeared.

She had already caught a couple of waves but was waiting for high tide to start.

A wave about 10 maybe 12 feet high rose up from the sea and Noelani quickly laid on her stomach and paddled out.

Once she was close enough, Noelani popped up on her board.

The wave caught her and Noelani bent her knees a little as she rode the wave skillfully.

The water flicked onto her scalp, drenching her curls as she held her fingertips out to her left, creating a space in the wave.

As the wave ended, she caused the surfboard to jump and turn a little before making it land steadily back in the water.

Noelani straddled her board again, brushing back her hair with one hand.

This was the most peaceful Noelani had felt since touching down in California.

Another wave, about eight feet tall, rose and Noelani quickly paddled out to meet it, standing up on the board once again.

"Noelani Tatiana Morales! Get from the water, right now young lady!" A masculine voice screeched from the sand.

The voice startled her causing her to fall, back first, into the water and submerge.

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