SURFER GIRL

I FEEL FREE

The water was a bit rocky, but it was still calming. The salt splashing on my face and occasionally in my eyes but that doesn't stop my smile. The wind breaks the heat of the sun sending chills every once in a while. I can't feel the freezing air surrounding the atmosphere, all I feel is freedom! Freedom from my mind, from the anxiety and stress.

When I'm in the water at the beach it's just me, my board, and the ocean.

-THIRD PERSON VEIW-

As Kailani saw a wave forming, she began paddling towards it on her body board. Once the wave crashed, Kailani swiftly turned around on her board. She just let the wave take her up. Her arm swung to the side straight out both sides like she was flying. A few other people tried to catch the same wave, but no one did but Echo didn't notice. Her eyes closed, and her ears blocked out all noise apart from the beautiful rhythm the as waves crashed.

When gliding on the wave is when she felt freest. Like there was nothing to stop her.

Before you ask no she wasn't going to hit a kid or adult by accident because she goes to the same beach every day, and everybody just knows even the new people. Kailani tends to stay at the brim of the flags and sometimes out of the flags. But she tended to stay inside the flags as that's just where she felt safe.

She felt a few pairs of eyes on hers as she slid down to the shore. She instantly knew it were boys' eyes by the stare. She ignored as always and kept going back and forth catching a wave landing at shore, walking back up and catching another wave. After a few more rounds she went up to the sand where her bag and surfboard lay. She dropped her body board and reached down and got her surfboard. Quickly waxing it then jumping up to get to the water. She went outside the flags when more people showed up at the beach.

-KAILANI'S POINT OF VEIW-

I leaped onto my board and paddled out. I took every wave that was taller than me, until suddenly I turned around to see a massive wave forming. All the surfers came over still distancing themselves from each other. I started paddling right towards it, I got so close everyone looked at me weird, but I just kept my eyes on the water. Once I was close enough, I swiftly turned around to face the shore and paddled, I could tell it was almost under me.

As soon I felt it under my I leapt to my feet and enjoyed ever single bit of it. I was inside the barrel, and it was almost closed, but I didn't care I just let my board take me. Once out of the barrel I opened my eyes I realized I was the only one to catch that wave. 

I chuckled to myself knowing those surfers have a lot more experience than me, but there is only one difference. I surf for joy and freedom, those surfers surf for competition.

(A\N NOTE:  Sorry it's a short chapter but there is still more to come! HOPE YOU ENJOYED!)