Like Your Eyes (EN)

chapter 1

Maya was sitting on the beach. She was looking towards the horizon, her legs were raised on her chest and her arms were crossed on her knees, her chin was resting on her forearms.

She was looking out to the Pacific Ocean. She was looking at the waves. She was listening to the sound of the foam as it came to rest on the beach.
She was thinking about how she found herself on this beach, today, at this moment.

There was no one there, she was watching the sunrise, it was barely six o'clock in the morning, she had blinked and had not understood where the drop of water that she had felt fall on her forearm had come from. She didn't realize that she was crying.

As soon as the sun was high enough in the sky, she tied her surf leash to her ankle, stood up, rubbed her hands, then her buttocks to remove the sand. She retrieved her surfboard from the sand and put it under her arm.

She ran into the water and jumped on the board once the water was high enough.
She started paddling with her arms until the first waves broke.
Once the waves became bigger, she pressed on the front of her board, to go under the wave.

A first wave, then she was out of the water. She paddled again and dived under another wave.

/Flashback/

Carina was on the beach. She had her camera and was taking some pictures of the waves and surfers.

She was at North Shore, which was located north of O'ahu, in the Hawai'i Islands. This sublime beach had an exceptional view. It was ideal for someone like Carina, whose passion was photography.

Today there was a competition on ʻEhukai Beach and between the view, the waves, the surfers, the location was more than perfect for her.

She had turned the ring on her telephoto lens to zoom in a bit and her lens had captured a surfer sitting on her board waiting for a wave, while another surfed.

She was watching, waiting for her next move, taking a few pictures, but she wondered who this girl was that she was watching, even in profile, practically from behind, this woman intrigued her.

She had seen the woman leaning forward, and through the viewfinder she had looked at her buttocks, in her white two-piece swimsuit. The blonde had started rowing in the water to the wave.

Maya had turned around with her board and paddled a little faster.

- "Bishop seems to be launching for the next wave." Said one of the two presenters, John.

-" It's a beautiful wave," replied the presenter with him, Gail.

On her side, Carina was taking pictures of her.

Maya had pushed on her arms and stood on the board.
She had done a take-off, the descent on the wave, before doing a tube, following the break of the wave. She was out of the tube by raising her fist in the air.

-"Maya Bishop's ride was pure beauty, she will be the one to beat today" said John.

-"Let's not forget that this young surfer is only seventeen years old and has already won six junior competitions!" Gail said.

- "and she's got a nine point five, a nine point seven and two nine point eights. it's going to be very hard to beat!"

The blonde had continued her ride to the beach and jumped off the board directly onto the beach before retrieving it.

She had passed her surf under her arm and had joined her brother, Mason and her best friend Jo, whom she had taken in her arms.

- "No one is going to be able to beat you!" Mase said.