(Phinda Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal) Twenty years earlier, Simon was living in the bush, among his Zulu family, tracking animals barefoot, with a spear in his hand. Today he's driving a $70,000 customized Land Rover Defender, a Bruno .375 magnum single shot rifle by his side.
Simon is our tracker, and he led us off in search of the 'big five' of game: rhino, lion, leopard, elephant, and african buffalo. We weren't disappointed.
Driving 550 km southeast from Joburg, then 75k into the bush, down a dirt road, we arrived at Phinda just after dark. Armed guards met were waiting at the car park to lead us to the reception hut. Check in took just a moment, then the guards led us through the bush to one of the 12 tree houses. Five-star accomodations, built on stilts in the trees, with solid glass walls to leave an unobstructed view of the surrounding jungle.
The houses were strategically placed through the jungle so that none was in view of another. Our guard cautioned us that we were not to leave the house without an escort, and just to pick up the phone if we wanted something, or to leave. But there was no-where to go.
The lodge area is in the midst of 275,000 acres of wilderness. The guard's final remark was that we would receive a 'wake-up' call for coffee, before departing on our morning game drive, and that he would be waiting outside our door thirty minutes after the call.
He DIDN'T say, the call would come at 4AM. Our guard led us to the bouma, an open pit fire surrounded by eleven foot high bamboo stakes. There were armed guards surrounding the maze-like entrance. Strong coffee, tea, biscuits and fruit were offered, and two groups of six walked to the road and piled into the open top Defenders.
Simon drove; Mbekhe sat on the hood, combing both sides of the bush for game. The sky was turning pink in the east as we drove across highways of tall grass. Years of living in the bush enabled Simon to smell game. He would look for tracks, droppings, conferring with Mbekhe in Zulu.
We drove over the top of a small rise, and rolled to a stop. Directly in front of us was a female cheetah, pacing back and forth, trying to divert our attention from her three cubs which were nearby.
We sat and snapped photos in the chilly sunrise. Across the plain, a herd of giraffes graciously moved across a field, stopping to nibble at tree tops, obviously unaware of the danger of the cheetah nearby.
Driving on, we saw hyenas, wildebeests, gnus, small packs of zebras, three orphan leopard cubs.
We continued our quest, cutting through a low forest. Simon's head moved, he stopped the Defender, cut the engine, listening. A snapping of brances noise in the woods. He whispered for everyone to be extremely quiet, not to stand up and "change the profile of the truck." He quietly started the car, backed up, so we were facing the opposite direction. Then he cut the engine again, waiting. He told us we could turn around, the breaking branch noise grew louder. The trees parted, a thundering noise, there was a herd of elephants charging us!
Simon laughed and we drove away, six nervous white people snapping pictures as many tons of tusked grey flesh tried to catch us. They run at 30 km an hour he said, we can only drive 20 in the bush. Eventually they tired of their prey, and we returned to the lodge. Our other Defender was not so lucky, they were trapped on a road between two groups of the pachyderms, while the elephants broke trees to block the road. Eventually, again, the elephants grew bored.
Back at the lodge, breakfast was served. As I said, this is strictly five star, despite its remote location. The finest food, wines, china, linen. We were told we had the option of a hike then or a nap, most of us choosing the latter.
Returning with our armed guard to the room, hot baths, sitting on the porch resting, taking in the jungle, some vintage south african merlot to wash down the malaria pills.
The night game drive would begin with high tea at 3:30PM, the rest was welcome and needed.
Out again, sunset comes early in the South African winter, so far south.
The evening's "catch" was just as bountiful. Three massive white rhinos, drinking by a waterhole. A fresh carcass (horribly smelling) meant a big cat was nearby, and we were delighted to come upon a pride of lions soon after. Again, the important fact was to sit completely still and silent in the truck, as the lions walked around us and investigated. Dinner was at 8:30. Prime roast beef, guinea fowl casserole, fresh squash, eggplant, biscuits and bread right from the oven, an assortment of wines and cocktails. Friendly conversation with visitors from all over the world, mingling with our hosts from the lodge, learning about the animals, Africa, politics.
The pitch black sky above was like being covered with a dark blanket, a million pin holes in it, with a bright light behind them. A night sky, like you have never imagined or witnessed.
Stephen Stills once sang "When you see the Southern Cross for the first time, you understand why you came this way."
You do.
