CHAPTER XXVII
THE COCK FIGHT.
In order to keep the Sabbath holy in the Philippines the people
generally go to the cock fight, just as in Spain they go to the
bull fight. Cock fighting, a passion introduced into the country and
exploited for a century, is one of the vices of the people, more deeply
rooted than the opium vice among the Chinese. The poor go there to
risk what little they have, desirous of making money without working;
the rich go there to amuse themselves, using the money which they
have left over from their feasts and thanksgiving masses. The cock is
educated with great care, with more care, perhaps, than the son who
is to succeed his father in the cock-pit. The Government permits it
and almost recommends it, for it decrees that the fight shall only
be held in the public plazas and on holidays from after high mass
till dark--eight hours.
The San Diego cock-pit does not differ from others which are found in
all the towns. It consists of three parts: The first, or entrance,
is a large rectangle, some twenty meters in length and fourteen in
breadth. On one side is the door, generally guarded by a woman who
collects the entrance fee. From the contribution which each one
makes the Government receives a part, some hundred thousands of
pesos each year. They say that with this money, which gives license
to the vice, magnificent schools are raised, bridges and roadways
constructed, and rewards offered for the encouragement of agriculture
and commerce. Blessed be the vice which produces such good results! In
this first precinct are the vendors of betel nut, cigars and tobacco,
delicacies and refreshments. There the small boys, who accompany their
fathers or uncles, are carefully initiated into the secrets of life.
This precinct communicates with another of slightly larger dimensions,
a sort of vestibule, where the people gather before the fight. There,
one sees most of the cocks, tied by a cord to a bone driven into the
ground like a nail; there, are the bettors, the lovers of the sport,
the man skilled in fastening the gaffs or spurs to the cock's legs;
there, bargains are made, the situation discussed, money borrowed,
and people curse, swear and laugh boisterously. In one place, some
one is caressing his game cock, passing his hand over his brilliant
plumage; in another, a man examines and counts the number of scales
on the rooster's legs, for that, they say, is a sign of valor. The
battles of the heroes are related. There, too, you will see many a
disappointed owner, with a sour face carrying out by the legs, a dead
