One of us

Surfing

Surfing creates one of those feelings that you can't put into words. The freedom of riding a wave, combined with the sheer speed at which you are going is truly magical. You are controlling the water, and the only thing stopping you falling is a thin layer of fibreglass. As you pull off trick after trick, you feel completely free.

Bondi beach is empty today. The sky is overcast, although to me its not cold. That's probably because Holywell Bay, Cornwall, where I grew up, is quite cold. I have only recently moved to Australia, finally fulfilling my childhood dream. Not only Australia, but the beautiful Bondi. It's strange to think that 4 days ago, I was on a plane, headed into some unknown land, halfway across the world from England. Growing up by the sea, I regularly spent time in it. From the age of 7 I did surf lifesaving, progressing up through Nippers and Juniors. When I turned 16, I trained as a lifeguard and surf lifesaving coach, and have been doing that ever since.

The sole reason for my move to Australia is to go to university. I have taken a gap year, to settle down, and then I'm going to the University of Sydney to study Veterinary science. I guess you could say I love animals.

As I perform a layback on a massive unbroken wave, I notice a black sphere in the water. I think its just a buoy, but I pull off the wave to investigate anyway. Paddling over, my head is filled with terror. It is a body lying face down in the water. Whilst I turn him over, I check his pulse. 'Shit!' I say. He has a pulse, but very weak. Realizing this is a possible spinal injury, I carefully drag him onto my board. He must only be 14.

As I signal for help from the lifeguards, I start paddling back to shore. My patient keeps sliding off my surfboard, I guess I didn't wax it properly in my rush to get in the sea this morning. With my heart in my mouth, I catch a small wave in, being cautious so not to catch a dumper so we nosedive. I finally reach the sand, my head full of thoughts about what the boy must be feeling. I try and wake him and sure enough, he wakes with a cough.

Knowing that he could possibly damage his spinal cord even further if he walks, I resort to a less than ideal option. Dragging my £500 board up the sand, with a dead weight on it. When I reach my towel and bag, I try and comfort the boy. 'You'll be alright mate, just breathe deeply and the lifeguards will be here soon.' This wasn't a lie, I can hear the lifeguard's buggy pulling up next to us. The only thing I can think when I look at the lifeguards is Oh my God they're so hot. They really are. One of them, obviously the boss, came up to me and asked me a question. 'Hello. My name's Hoppo. Would you care to speak to me while the boys deal with the casualty?' He has a very kind and fatherly voice, and I can't help liking him. I reply yes, unsure of what he will say to me. Will he criticize my handling of the patient?

We walk about 10 metres away, so nobody else can hear us. 'I really admire what you did with that little boy. You obviously realized we hadn't seen you, so you took matters into your own hands, and decided to help the boy. I am really sorry that we didn't see you.' Well that's a relief. 'Thank you. It's ok that you didn't see me, I knew what to do, coz I'm a trained lifeguard!' He had a massive grin on his face when I finished my sentence.

'How long are you staying in Australia?' He asked. 'I actually moved here a few days ago, and have taken a gap year before I go to uni in Sydney,' I replied. His grin has grown even bigger now. 'Would you like to be a lifeguard here? You will obviously have to undergo some tests and stuff, but I reckon you'd have a pretty good chance of qualifying.''I don't think you even need to ask me!' I laughed, my smile replicating his. He laughed with me.

I hope you like the first proper chapter of my book, and sorry if I kept changing tenses! xxx