Chapter 19: How to Apply Your Powder

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Dab the powder puff or cotton wool into the powder and then apply it to your face in a press and roll motion. Don't miss the crevices around the nose, lips, and eyes and take care not to rub the powder into the pores.

·         With a soft, thick powder brush or a swans-down puff, remove any surplus powder with downward movements. Blend in the line around the jaw and neck. Then use an eyebrow brush to remove any loose powder from the eyebrows.

Highlighters

After you have laid base color with foundation and powder, you can emphasize the contours of your face with blushers, shades, and highlighters. These bring life and a shape to your face, emphasizing bone structure and playing down faulty or irregular features.

The basic principle is that colors paler than the skin bring features forward, while darker colors make them recede. Contour color should always be subtle, blended with a light touch and not applied in harsh lines. Contour colors come as gels, creams, sticks, or powder. Gels and liquids give color to the skin, with a light coverage that flatters tanned and even skin tone.

Powder is the easiest to use, as layers of color can be build up gradually. Look carefully at your face shape and decide which features you want to enhance and which you want to play down. Shader and highlighter work well together when chosen carefully. Blusher adds color rather than shadow, and so can be of a richer hue, for instance a red blusher adding to shades and highlights in tones of tan or peach.

Use highlighters only on good features which you want to draw attention to, for instance was balanced cheekbones or an attractive bone structure around the eyes. The check and brow bone form a natural frame, for the eyes, and if the bones are highlighted they form a very dramatic setting for well blended eye make-up. Don't use a highlighter that is too pale, ivory, pale pink, or cream tones look better than white. Bronzes, golds, and deeper pinks look good on darker skin tones. 

Added shine or glitter intensifies the effect of highlighter, especially in strong sunlight or electric light.

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