That Beautiful Thing Called Life

Riding Out the Wave

Chappo

Chris lifted his head sleepily. For a second he was disoriented, but as he adjusted he realised he was reclining on his couch, with Annie tucked under his arm and her head resting on his chest. He smiled contentedly and laid back down. Right here, right now, this is what happiness looked like to him. 

Annie stirred. She began to mumble something in her sleep and move restlessly. Alarm bells went off in Chris's head.  He pulled her close and held her, trying to offer some comfort, but she writhed continuously. And then she screamed. 

"Noooooo Alex, pull it back up, pull it back up, you're too close to the ground...NO!"

Chris was worried. He kept his grip on her tight and stroked her hair, whispering to her to try and calm her.

"Annie, love, come back. Where are you? Come back to me. It's okay, I'm here. You're safe. Shh. You're safe with me."

She awoke suddenly and pulled away from him, sitting bolt upright. She was covered in sweat and she shook uncontrollably. She turned away from him. Was she ashamed?

"Annie? Are you alright?"

He put his hand out to reassure her, but she avoided him.

"W-why did you let me sleep?" she asked tearfully. "I told you not to let me sleep..."

She began to cry. This time, she allowed herself to be pulled back into his arms. 

"It was so real," she sobbed, "it's always so real."

"Does this happen a lot, Annie? You don't sleep?"

He felt her head nod against his chest. His heart broke for her.

"Have you talked to someone about this? It's nothing to be ashamed of, Annie, but you can't keep all these emotions bottled up inside. It's not healthy."

He helped her sit up, and got her a glass of water, all the while stroking her hair and rubbing her back, calming her shattered nerves.

"I'll go and talk to someone," she said shakily. "But Chris...I'm scared," she whispered. "I need to let them go, all of them. But...I don't know how to live without them."

Chris pressed his forehead against hers. 

"You never have to live without them Annie, I swear. You'll always have them. They were your family.  But it's time to make some room in your heart for another family. "

Annie smiled at him, and he felt his heart skip a beat. Damn, Annie, why are you always doing that to me? 

"So, I was wondering Chris..."

He tucked a stray strand of hair behind her ear and waited for her to find the words she was looking for.

"Would you be my family?"

He could have cried just then. It took him a few seconds to get control of his voice, and when  he did speak, he choked with emotion. 

"I thought you'd never ask."

Annie

He kissed her then, a kiss so full of healing and comfort that Annie felt her pain wash away in seconds as she lost herself in the warmth of his embrace. When they pulled away, Annie smiled and stood up, dragging Chris to his feet as well.

"Right," she announced, "time for a surf."

Chris shook his head and laughed. 

"You are incorrigible, woman," he said with a grin, "but give me twenty minutes."

Twenty minutes later, Annie packed the surfboards into the back of the ute, and was waiting impatiently outside, already dressed in her wetsuit. 

"Chris! Hurry up!"

Two minutes later, Chris came sprinting out the door, dropped his shoulder and bowled into her stomach, lifting her over his shoulder and spinning her around in the air. Annie howled with a mixture of laughter and embarrassment.

"Put me down! I'm warning you,Chris, put me down now, or so help me I'll..."

"You'll what? Tickle me to death?"  Chris grinned and set her down. "Now get in the car, woman, I'm waiting." 

He winked and revved the engine. She rolled her eyes and jumped in the passenger seat. 

"Apparently, the surf is about twelve foot today. The boys are calling it Big Wednesday," said Chris.

"Keen as," Annie replied excitedly. She loved big surf. It was the thrill of the chase.

Ten minutes later, they were standing on the shore waxing their boards.  Whippet, Harries, Maxi, Hoppo and Jesse had come down to join them.

"Geez it's big out there today," Whippet said with a grin.

"Gonna be a tough one," replied Jesse, "you sure you're good out there Annie?"

Annie raised her eyebrows at him. 

"Tell me when it gets to twenty five feet, mate, then it'll be tough. The bigger the better.  Let's go!"

She ran in to the surf and grabbed the tow rope from behind Deano's jetski. The tow-in was good. The wave was even better. It had to be fifteen feet tall. And as the barrel closed over her, she close her eyes and ran her fingers through its curved wall. It was one moment of pure, perfect silence. For those beautiful seconds, she was one with the wave.

On the shore

"Let's see how she goes here, then," murmured Hoppo, as they watched her tow in. 

"She's been surfing forever man, she'll be sweet," replied Chris, completely confident in her ability.

"Yeah but you're biased Chips," laughed Jesse, "let's let her surfing do the talking."

And then the wave of the day rolled in. They could see it coming at the back of the set. Judging from the rate of her paddling, Annie could see it too. And then she was on. Watching her surf was nothing short of beautiful. She moulded into the board perfectly. It was like a well oiled machine. Then she went into the barrel. 

The  watchers on observed in awe as she disappeared for a few seconds. Chris felt his heart stop. But they hadn't seen her go over the falls, so she was probably fine.

And then she appeared, riding out the barrel and leaping into the air. She paddled back in to shore, all smiles.

"That was rad!" yelled Maxi running to meet her.

"Epic ride girl," grinned Jesse, offering her a fist bump.

"I had no idea you could surf like that," exclaimed Whippet.

Annie smiled. 

"I've been surfing my whole life," she said. "My mum used to take me to watch the big wave surfers, and she always said that the person who could surf those waves was the person who could be equal with nature for a few short seconds.  So, from that day on, that's what I wanted to do. I wanted to be equal with nature. You can never conquer it. But by riding out the wave, you can be equal to it."

Tears glistened in her eyes, but she wiped them away before they could fall. Chris pulled her into a hug, and she wrapped her arms tightly around his neck. 

This was her happy place.

This was her family.