Broken

Chapter 7

"You ready for this rookie?"

I looked at him, crossing my arms. "What is it with you and nicknames?"

He laughed, pulling the surfboards off of the top of the car. He set one against the side and handed me the other one. It was a good foot or so taller than me, and I steadied it with my hands.

"I like them. It's exhausting calling you Adelaide all the time."

He pulled on the sleeves of his wetsuit, kicking off his shoes and grabbing the board. He looked good, his body slim.

I looked out onto the waves, the swell gentle but large. The sand was warm under my toes, birds flying overhead. "I've never done this before."

He shrugged. "You'll be fine. Just do what I do."

I nodded. Sounded easy enough. We walked along the beach, the crowds not as large as an hour ago. Other surfers were on the waves, but they were scattered here and there.

"Now the first thing you need to know," he said, looking back at me. "is you probably won't get it your first time. Or second or third or even today."

"You're so encouraging." I said sarcastically, popping a hand on my hip. The wet suit he loaned me belonged to his sister, but she was a bit taller than me so it was long but comfortable.

"I'm just telling you the truth. It's not easy."

I nodded. " Nothing ever is."

He looked at me for a moment before shaking his head and continuing into the water. He plopped his board onto the surface and straddled it. "Sit on it like this okay?"

"Alright." I said, swinging my leg over the side. It took a moment for me to get steady but I shifted to get comfortable.

He paddled farther out and I followed him, copying his long fluid strokes.

"Hi Harry!" a voice yelled and our heads whipped simultaneously behind us. A girl was standing on the shore, her long brown hair waving behind her. She was wearing a skimpy black bikini and I rolled my eyes. Harry lifted his hand in greeting and nodded his head.

I looked back at him. "You know her?"

"Yeah, we dated for awhile last year."

An ex girlfriend. Of course. "Oh."

He grinned at me. "Why, you interested in taking her spot?"

I blushed, frowning. "Of course not."

He shrugged and smiled. "I'm just kidding." He scanned the area in front of him, looking for a good wave. He laid out on his board, getting ready to paddle. "Besides," he continued, looking back over his shoulder at me. "you're too good for me anyway."

I stared after him, my mind racing. I watched as he paddled out, standing gracefully as he rode the wave. His face was set in concentration, his arms out to steady himself. He rode all the way back to shore, wiping out at the end.

He sat back on his board, cupping his hands around his mouth. "Just like that!" he yelled. "Feel the wave, don't fight it!"

I nodded, looking back. I paddled out just like he had done, and I could feel the wave swell beneath me. I took a deep breath, pushing up on my arms. I wobbled as I stood to my feet, but caught my balance. I turned to smile at him until my board disappeared out from under me. Suddenly water was everywhere, the waves sweeping me under. Everything was silent for a moment as the swell died down and I kicked to bring myself to the surface. I sputtered when I reached air, coughing up water as I flopped over my board. Harry was already paddling out to me.