Prologue

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  They say love is hard to find but what happens when you've found love, but not the kind that's between you and another person, the kind that's between you and something exhilarating.

My love is surfing, the beach, nature in general. It's always there and will never break your heart, it listens to you, it listens to your thoughts, your voice, your mind.

It carries your breath through the wind, keeps you warm with its blazing fires, cools you down with its crystal waters and eases your raging mind with its calming scenery's.

I blow the air that was getting tight in my chest, out my nose, watching as the glistening bubbles slowly rise through the turquoise water, breaking the surface causing endless ripples to surround it.

My feet push off the soft sand leaving a cloud of orange and white raging to settle. My body glides through the deep water until I reach the surface. I open my mouth and take a deep breath letting the salty, cooled air to fill my lungs.

I open my eyes and smile, the beach is something that calms me.

I swim to catch a wave along the way to the shore , letting my body get carried through the water.

I stand as soon as I can reach the bottom, I walk up the beach reaching dry sand, I grab my towel and wrap it around my dripping body.

The sun just starts to gleam over the clouds on the horizon giving the morning blue sky, rays of yellow and orange.

What a great way to start off the day, I walk towards the exit of the beach when I run into my older brother, he smiles "I knew you would be here".

"It's the only place I love, that's your new board?" I question looking at the thin red strips that glide down to the tail surrounded by black.

"Yep, the one and only. Mum wants you home by the way" he says while walking past me.

"Alright you have fun" I reply.

I walk up the crusty sand letting my feet dig into it. The feeling of sand in between your toes it something different. I turn around and take one last look at the beautiful scenery nature has blessed us with, the waves rolling through the calm water as the sun shine starts to make waves glisten almost like glass.

I feel content and smile, it's been a while since I've felt happy. Finally getting over the past and ready for the holidays ahead. 

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