𝖂𝖎𝖕𝖊𝖉 𝕺𝖚𝖙

1.)

↣ I wade into the water on my board. Laying on my stomach I make a natural circular motion moving my arms like clockwork to swim to the wave starting to peak over the surface. I see the blue water and the white water to the distance climbing over the blue barrier. I balance myself as I push my body up and squat to stand on the board. I stand confident in my position and I'm about to ride a big one. I see the wave flow right over me and I leave my feet shoulder length apart as I ride along the wave. The wind flows past me on this hot sunny day the water mists my hair. I feel my speed as I go on this joyride. The adrenaline is pumping through my veins I laugh my mouth forms into a wide open mouth smile. This is all I could ever want in life. I don't need anything else, I don't want anything else. I just want to do what I was born to do.

*three months later*

"Hi welcome to Jack's Crab Shack how can I serve you." I tell the people that walk in to the restaurant in a monotone voice. I want to die. I'm wearing a visor with a crab plushie that has a zipper on its stomach like a Fanny pack for tips. Could the uniform get more ugly you might ask? Yes, yes it can. Our uniform is a bowling shirt with a green collar trim. The bottom is matched up with neon vertical yellow stripes along with navy blue ones filling in the empty space. I want to get out of here.

By the time I finish up I smell like the ocean. Not the salty sea breeze but the dead fish smell. You might be asking why aren't you out in the ocean right now? I wiped out. When I wiped out and the surfboard hit my leg causing peripheral nerve damage. This damage needs physical therapy and it can take months or years to recover some cases are even life long. My dreams are shattered I feel like I have no hope my love, passion, everything I lived for is gone. My goal was to make money surfing. I have made money already with all the contests and events. You really win at life if you can make money doing what you want to do.

I take my black faded denim jacket and tan baseball cap sliding it on my head. My hands fish into my pockets as I pull out my keys. I'm still learning how to walk. I mean I can walk, but I still feel stupid with the leftover limp I carry with my day in and day out. I took this job because it was close to my house. Walking up the hill was a pain, I'm just glad there is no tropical rain hitting me right now last thing I would want is to be soaked since I can't sprint home.

Walking in the door I've never been more thankful than to be home. My house is very small but I wouldn't trade it for the world because across the horizon is the beautiful view from up top of one of the many beautiful beaches in Hawaii. I'm also thankful we didn't have to buy the house and my great grandparents gave it to us. My dad still isn't home yet, I see a note on the counter notifying me he was out getting a few groceries. After reading this I just walk into my room and plop on my bed.

My hair feels sweaty from the humidity of the restaurant I keep telling Jack he needs to fix the AC unit but he never listens. Do I want to be stuck working there the rest of my life? Absolutely not however I don't have many options. As a senior in high school who hasn't had the main focus on grades my dad keeps asking me what I want to do with my life if I can't surf. That's it I'm stuck I really don't know what I'm going to do if I can't surf.

I take off Sarah's hand me down baseball cap. I guess it's in style to have a worn out baseball cap even though it's torn a bit at the tip of the bill I still like it. The hat reminds me of her. I hate to think I miss her, she left us and it pisses me off. The only picture I have of her left is her holding my shoulder while I'm in front of her with my surfboard and wetsuit. I was thirteen at the time standing in front of the water toes in the sand. My light blonde hair is wet with some shape from my naturally wavy hair. I had starfish earrings along with an off white puka chip shell necklaces around my neck. My lighter hazel eyes that had green and gold flecks. come from dad while my mom had dark Atlantic blue eyes, however my blonde hair came with my mom's traits. Some part of me wishes she could come back I haven't seen her since I was thirteen, I know it's been 5 years so what could change that? I still can't help it but to think about it all the time. I look into Sarah's face and I can see she looks pretty vacant she was always a loving mother but something felt missing. That feeling made me feel like I wasn't enough but last thing I wanted was to dive deep into my mommy issues. The pain the photo brought me was too much to deal with tonight. I advert my attention off of the frame and I look over at my shell mirror hanging from my wall.

I use makeup remover to take off my mascara. Most of it ended up under my eyes from all the humidity. I make a mental note of things to buy from the supermarket next time, top of the list being waterproof mascara. To think as a surfer I didn't already have this was crazy. At the same time sometimes when you put something on the list your dad doesn't really understand what to get with girl products. Don't get me started on feminine hygienic products. I guess I'll need to stop by the mart quick since I didn't write anything down.

It will be a short trip. I really analyze myself in the mirror for the first time in a while. I look tired and the constellation of freckles across my face look more pale than they usually are considering I'm stuck inside all day and not out by the sun. However tired I may be I don't let that stop me from living out the rest of my life. After taking a quick shower I grab a baby blue hoodie and some black track shorts. After sliding on my socks I tie my laces on my green high top converse. I grab my sunglasses throwing them in my totebag and snatch my wallet heading off to the mart.

A/N : This is the first chapter and I didn't want to make it too long so the second chapter will be up the same time! I tried doing my best to research some stuff out along with my own knowledge if I don't get something right it didn't happen 🤫 ahaha.