The Surfer's Heart

Chapter 1

I had a brief moment to hold my breath before my surfboard flipped over the top of me, smacking me headfirst into the water. Literally.

The waves toppled over my board and sent my body into a dizzying craze as I tried to reach the surface. Up was down and down was up. I pushed panic down deep into my gut as I clenched my lips together, swimming aggressively towards the direction I thought might be air.

My head burst through the surface of the water and I gasped for relief before another wave pummeled me. This time, I wasn't as disoriented. I was calmer. Smarter. I opened my eyes for a split second under the water, just so I could see the next wave coming. I waited for it to break before bounding to the surface and diving onto my surfboard.

I didn't need to look to know my dad was penning my every move down. His clipboard probably had a hole in it by how many notes he had for me. I'll admit, today was not my day.

The next wave came quickly and I decided to go for it. I paddled for a moment before the surfboard got enough momentum, then I launched to my feet. I was sturdy. I was calm. I was ready.

The wave began to spiral as I darted under the curl. My heart raced as the tunnel folded in and just before the water enclosed me, I made it. The fresh air greeted me as a smile spread across my lips. My speed was good on that one at least.

However, my smile didn't last long. As I rode the wave closer to shore, I noticed my father's expression; his features tight, his eyebrows furrowed, and his mouth in a line.

Not good enough.

As I approached the shore, I dipped into the water, feeling the wet sand between my toes before dragging my surfboard across the warm, dry sand. I resisted the urge to roll my eyes as I threw my surfboard down at my father's feet. He hardly looked up at me as his fingers scribbled across his clipboard. I crossed my arms and waited, impatiently tapping my foot.

"Well?" I asked after several moments of insufferable silence. My hands sat securely fisted on my hips. If he had something to say, he might as well just come out with it.

"It was entertaining to watch, I'll give you that." He still refused to meet me in the eyes.

I groaned, pulling at my matted, wet hair and twisted it tightly. Water secreted from every strand, sand falling out along with it.

"It's like I'm getting worse! How is this even possible? We've been training endlessly!" I spun around, refusing to look at my father anymore. I wasn't frustrated with him, I was frustrated with myself. I knew what I was capable of and the way I've been riding recently is not up to my standard, not to mention my dad's standard. Why have I been struggling so much with something I completely love?

"Honestly, I don't know," my dad said, tapping his pen against the clipboard in a steady rhythm. "Something's changed in you. It's like you're not taking this seriously. You're lacking motivation. I mean, do you really want this title, Brooke?"

My dad's harsh words lashed at my throat. My cheeks flushed with annoyance. I knew he was right, but I didn't have an answer for him. Still, hearing him say it made me that much more upset.

"Yes," I mumbled.

"Then you need to start acting like it." My dad reached for his duffel bag and threw it around his shoulder. For the first time tonight, his face softened for a moment as he finally met me in the eyes. He reached a handout and gently squeezed my shoulder. The slightest of smiles escaped his mouth. So slight no one else would have noticed it. No one except for people close to him.

"I'll see you at home," he said and walked down the sidewalk towards our house.

I let out a long sigh as I dragged my feet through the warm sand back to the ocean. I felt unfinished with my run today. I needed some alone time; just me, my board, and the water.