"Life is like surfing a good wave. We have those moments where you feel as though you are on the top of the world and those where your life comes crashing down all around you."
Ainsley Matthews, ex-pro surfer, has been though a lot in the past. From...
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C H A P T E R T W E N T Y - F O U R i love interruptions
twinny: colloquial term for a twin- fin surfboard first implemented in the 1940's.
With a large white water wave pummelling towards me, I grasped the rails of my board, sinking the nose, as the wave engulfs my body.
Beneath the wave I had escaped the chaos above as the turbulence from the wave rattled my body.
A moment later the nose of my board emerged through the surface and immediately I wiped the salt water away from my stinging eyes.
Pushing my wet blonde hair out of my face, I scour the miles of ocean in front of me for a suitable wave.
After scouting a wave that appeared to be growing in speed and intensity as it closed the distance to me, I turned my board towards the shore and immediately started paddling to gain momentum.
The wave bean picking me up as I gripped onto the rails as sprung up onto my board, ensuring that I was balanced before maneuvering myself into position.
Just as I reached the peak of the wave, I pushed the nose of my board down to propel myself down the body vertically to pick up speed as I approached the trough.
To get back onto the face of the wave, I quickly maneuver the board, using my arm as a pivot as I turn my shoulders where I want to go as I execute a bottom turn.
I am now riding the face of the four foot wave once again. The peak of it about to crest as I take advantage of my speed and propel the board up and over the lip catching air as I grasp onto the rail, drawing my knees to my chest as I land smoothly. Much to my surprise.
Performing a couple more cuts and carves, I ride the wave out closer towards the shore before bailing off into the rippling water.
"Better!" Dawson exclaims as my head pops up from below the water. I grasp for my board, pulling myself on top of it as Dawson paddles so he's beside me.
"Your bottom turn was good, we have to ensure that's mastered as it is the determinant for the rest of your run" he says going all coach mode on me as he brushes a strand of hair out of face. "Catching air there was the right move as well but we need to add more tricks in their to get you to score higher".
I nod, unable to speak as I was catching my breath.
Just then Miranda catches a wave, riding it towards the shore as she gets knocked off, hitting the water with a giggle as she disappears for a moment as the wave covers her.
I focused on the water, waiting for her to pop up to ensure she was okay. I found myself doing this a lot lately, a new habit I acquired after Crystals passing.
"One more ride and I'm calling it a day" I say to Dawson as he nods before following me out deeper into the ocean, the two of us paddling side by side.
