Lifeguard from Maracas Bay

Chapter 01 - The Picturesque North Coast

Willie was born in Trinidad, a little sun-drenched island in the Caribbean. His family home is located on a craggy cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea on the picturesque North Coast of the island. As a boy, Willie spent his free time watching the ships as they sailed to and from other islands and distant lands. He loved to dream of leaving the island on one of those ships for exciting adventures in faraway places.

If you went inland hopping from Florida down to South America, Trinidad would be the last island on your itinerary. Trinidad is the fifth largest island in the Caribbean and the larger of the two islands in the twin-island state known as the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. Trinidad is relatively small (1,864 square miles) and is shaped like a high heel boot with Icacos at the toe and Galeota Point at the heel.

The Northern Range runs from east to west along the top of the boot and separates most the island from Maracas Bay on the North Coast. El Tucuche, the second highest peak (3,071 ft) on the Northern Range stands between Willie’s Maracas Bay and the highly populated East-West Corridor. The corridor is home to about one third of the island’s population. Willie had two basic views from his idyllic perch: the ocean with the ships on one side and the looming mountain range on the other. The North Coast Road separates the two.

Tourists and locals from the City of Port of Spain travel through Maraval to get to the North Coast Road leading to Maracas Bay. Residents from the rest of the island could come through the Santa Cruz valley on the Saddle Road. The junction where these two roads meet is quite unique because the Saddle Road actually passes through a large rock, 15-20 feet high, hence the name. A third way, reserved only for those in robust good health is to hike across the mountain from the Santa Cruz valley.

The ascent along the North Coast Road is breathtaking because it meanders lazily across the lush mountainside overlooking picturesque vistas of the Golf Course and many hillside villages. It is also very dangerous because of the number of gullies and deep precipices. Many people stop along the way to enjoy a refreshing drink of cool clear spring water from little makeshift fountains on the hillside. On the descent to the beach the road drifts slightly inward through the rain forest.

The parking lot at the highest point on the road is known to many as the Maracas Lookout. It is usually busy with artisans and others peddling delectable local goodies. Many visitors stop here to take pictures with the impressive view of the mountain rolling down towards the ocean in the background. Foreigners avail themselves of the opportunity to hear guitar playing calypsonians create personalized renditions reflecting the weather and any unique features of their respective group.

One of the lesser known mysteries of a trip to Maracas Bay is a point on the road where an unknown force pulls any vehicle up an incline while the engine is turned off and the gear is in neutral. Some locals contend that it is a magnetic force, others attribute it to gravity. The long winding drive ends with the panoramic view of Maracas Bay beckoning one and all to the sand and surf.

At the beach you will find people selling world-famous bake and shark served with a variety of local condiments. They also have accommodations for changing into swimming suits and showers for those who wish to wash away the salt and sand at the end of the day.

Except for holidays and weekends, Maracas Bay residents live in a little quiet coastal village that is protected from the hustle and bustle of city life. The main occupations are in the fishing and agriculture industries. When Willie was growing up here, this village was literally devoid of educational opportunities for children. However, it was a veritable paradise with warm sandy beaches and tall palm trees.

In the little nondescript country school, Teacher Nora taught Willie to read and he became a voracious reader. He read all the books in the school’s make-shift library before his ninth birthday. With little else to offer him, Teacher Nora always allowed Willie some free time to wander along the nearby beach.