Half the world away

Chapter 12

Ruby

I'm insane, I've lost my mind, it's well and truly gone and I really don't care.
As I stood there in waist deep water right at the edge of the sandbank I let my free hand collide with the crashing waves, flooding me with that feeling only the ocean provide. It's been 2 and a half years since I've seen the ocean let alone been in it, and  god knows I'm ready to feel the spray from the waves.

"You ready for this sweetheart?" Sammy said as he paddled up next to me.

"Yeah." Was all I said before I hopped onto my board and paddled out into deeper water where the twins and Stevie were sitting on their boards.

But I didn't stop next to them, on the horizon I could see a huge swell at least a 15 footer coming in, I could hear them calling after me but I didn't stop, I just kept paddling until I was close enough to turn back and catch it. I felt the adrenaline surge through me as I paddled against the strong rip, it pulled me back and right into the huge wave, getting enough momentum I finally stood up. It was like all the anxiety melted away into the spray of the tube building, a laugh escaped me as the wave cascaded over me like a moving bridge. God I'd missed this, this was everything I needed. I stuck my hand out feeling the rush of the water against my palm.

Finally out of the tube I could hear the twins, Stevie and Sammy shouting and cheering from north end where I'd passed them. The smile plastered on my face was one I hadn't felt in years, the girl that had been stripped away and put back together in the shape of a nervous girl had finally shone through the cracks in the facade. And it felt amazing.

"Holy shit, the city girl can surf." Danny said looking surprised and impressed.

"Dude that was sick! Please tell me you're actually a surfer because if you're not that was some crazy beginners luck." Stevie laughed.

"She's right Rubes that was a crazy tube." Jesse added.

I was overwhelmed with the feeling of being on the water again and the feeling of having friends again that I was speechless and all I could say was;
"I wanna go again!"

Sammy laughed looking at me with adoration and pride, it was the kind of look that made my stomach flip out more than that tube just did.

"Alright Rubes big swell coming in race ya!" Jesse shouted as he laid down and paddled out.

What is with these Aussie's and racing?

"Cheat!" I yelled after him with a laugh paddling behind him. I could hear the others laughing as I finally caught up to him.

Jesse sat bobbing on his board like one of the buoys. He smiled when he saw me paddle up next to him. Running a tattooed hand through his wet hair with a shiteating grin.

"Really didn't see ya as a surfer Rubes." He laughed splashing me from his board.

"Everyone's got a secret self Jess." I smiled splashing him back making him laugh.

"Good point. Waves coming in." He said laying down As he started to paddle with the rip.

This one was even bigger than the last, the rip pulling stronger on the board as the wave neared. Before we knew it Jesse and I were swerving up and down the wave, laughing with each other as we sent splashes of water at one and other.

The five of us spent the whole evening surfing until the swell calmed down and the water became like a millpond, with small waves. The sun was starting to set as we lay on our boards mindlessly floated on the water. I felt so peaceful, so at home and in that moment I didn't want or need anything more than what was right here with me.