THE TIDE

THE FIRST WAVE

"If there's a will there's a wave" The quote that started my love for surfing.

Every morning I wake up that's the first thing I look at right on my wall, across from my bed.

Morning waves begin to crash against the shore, and a few seagulls begin to sing telling me it's time to get up.

If you don't get up early enough you'll never catch any good waves I learned that the hard way. I could never get up in time I would always sleep in.

Maya Brown is the name that my parents thought sounded like a surfer name. "It suits you like the salt, and sand in your hair after a successful day of catching waves." My dad would always tell me.

I slip out from underneath my covers, feeling the cool morning air from the AC. Shivering a little I go to my dresser to pick a swim suit.

I pick my long sleeve tropical floral one piece since it was going to be a little chilly this morning.

After pulling my swimsuit on, I put my hair up into a pony tail and slip my Berkinstocks on and head downstairs.

"Morning sunshine" my dad says with a smile on his face as I walk into the kitchen.

"Morning dad" I say with a tired smile on my face. "Ready to catch some big ones today?" My dad exclaims with a cheery voice.

"I hope so it looks pretty good out there today I can feel it." I say looking out the kitchen window.

"I know you can you have that gift, never forget that not many people have it use it." Dad says with a more serious tone in his voice looking me in the eyes.

"Well I'll make you a smoothie so you can get out of here, I don't want you missing the good waves."

"I was about to ask you if you could but you already read my mind." I say with a quiet laugh since I knew Beau was still asleep.

Beau's my little brother he always tells me how he wants to be just like me when he grows up and be a surfer. He's six and for a little six year old he's got big dreams, and a lot to give this world.

After being lost in my thoughts for a moment, dad puts my smoothie in front of me.

"So what's today's smoothie of the day?" I say with a playful laugh.

"Strawberry, Mango and Banana with some spinach" dad says with a grin and a giggle.

"Mmmmmm" I say taking a sip, from the bright pink straw. "Your the best smoothie maker in the world, you should've opened your own juice bar" I say joking.

"That's genius dang I should have done that, but instead I got married and had two kids." Dad says with a kind of a fake laugh.

"Well good thing you did cause now you have an awesome daughter" I say with a wink.

"Yes that's true dad says rolling his eyes, then giving me a kiss on my forehead.

"Okay girl finish your smoothie so you can get out there, I don't want you missing out on all the good waves."

Taking the last few sips of my smoothie until it's gone, I rinse it and put it in the sink.

"Bye dad I'll be back in a couple of hours maybe" giving him a quick hug.

"Okay be safe out there, and remember use your gift." Dad says with a light smile.

"I will" smiling back with that I head for the garage door to go get one of my surf boards.

I go to the shelves where me and dad store all our surf boards, and grab one of my Billabong ones grab my backpack and open the garage and make my way to the beach.

We didn't live to far from the beach I always just walked there if it was good weather, or if I just felt like it.

This was my favorite beach it's called Diamond beach, it has the best waves out of any beach I've seen.

I make it down the steps to the beach and find a spot to put my backpack and towel down. I sit down in the sand for a moment so I can wax up my board.

Finishing up, I start to walk down to the ocean letting it touch my toes first. After standing there for a moment, I attach the strap of my surf board to my ankle and jump right in.

I begin to walk out until it's deep enough for me to start paddling.

Once I get far enough out, I duck dive underneath a wave and keep paddling until I find the right place to sit and wait until a wave comes.

The ocean seemed quiet nothing seemed to be coming. My dad taught me that when this happens I need to put my hand across the water, and focus on the energy of the ocean before a wave comes. And then I'll know when a wave is coming.

Following his instructions, I wait a moment until the energy changes into a wave.

Seeing one beginning to form I start to paddle hard to make it in time, cause I could miss it if I'm not quick.

After duck diving again, I come up from the water to get ready to stand.

I lift myself up from my stomach and get to my knees, then to my feet.

Next thing I know I'm up and riding with a big smile on my face, as the sun begins to come up.