Letters from India

32. Jammu, Waishnodevi & Kashmir - June 1985

Jammu, Waishnodevi & Kashmir

June 20, 1985

Katra (Jammu)

Dear Family,

Arrived in Katra 6:30 PM on 17th June Tuesday. There was a tourist reception center nearby. What you do is get a slip of paper, a waiting slip. Then you stand in line and exchange the slip for an entry-permit slip. When I was exchanging I didn’t have my passport with me so gave the number by memory – no doubt wrong. People are always, always asking for passport number, never doing anything with it, that’s my feeling (the slip you need only at Waishnodevi).

Anyway, had a nice rest and arose early, leaving 5:30 AM to make the 14-kilometer trek to the cave-temple. Very nice walk through mountain ranges, reaching the top of one peak (thinking you’re at the goal), only to discover you must climb one more higher one – a tiring sight! Beautiful stream near beginning of trek, with grassy banks.

Green trees and plants abounded, and the weather was nice cuz it was early morning. There were two paths you had to choose from: a rock-road path (“paved” with huge rocks sticking out - usually used for going up) and stairs (usually used for coming down). At one point I tried the stairs – absolutely no banana! Got soo tired. Thankfully abandoned them for the road once again, at the next nearest meeting of the two. You also had the choice to opt for a horse, which the richer, chubbier or ones with small children would take advantage of. I figured, probably too expensive. And anyway, as for me I’d like to make pilgrimages via foot.

About halfway thru, right after I had attempted the steps, I was totally pooped. Was resting for like the 3rd time, in the last 100 feet. Yawning, ready to fall asleep. Needed help from Sai. He sent it. A group of horses came by, carrying supplies. One was for riding and a guy offered her to me! I of course refused, but he insisted soo then, I gladly accepted. :-) Rode for awhile, it was just what I needed.

Then, came to unloading point, I returned to the life of walking, refreshed. Buuut then, tired again like 4/5 the way there. Needed Sai’s help again. He sent it – this time in the form of energetic, young group of Westernized teenage Indians, 8 girls and 1 gent. They saw me resting and adopted me, telling me, “Ayea, Ayea!” (“Come, come!”) Tromp, tromp we went. Their group energy gave me more energy. They gave me some munchy fried daal and cookies (I hadn’t had any food that day).

There were countless water booths along the way, plus shops too. I had countless cups of ‘panee’ (water)!

The last leg of the journey was winding along mountain sides (horizontal walking) to finally reach the small town wherein the cave is located. Arrived at 11:30 AM – a 6-hour trek! The others wanted to rest so we parted cuz I wanted to have Darshan then return the same day (what a set mind will do to you....).

Then an amazing thing happened. I was asking everyone about where to get a group number (first step, then there are three additional packed waiting areas, after your group number gets called), when I happened upon the sort of “president” of the place, a tall, well-educated Western-looking gent. After he was convinced that I was only ‘ek’ (one, alone), I watched in amazement as he instructed a policeman to take me direct and special, straight to Darshan! I was thereby lead to the special police room near Darshan grounds, and instructed by a young English-speaking army guy (I was disappointed to find that even the police/army people don’t know English; they had to search for one who did!). You have to buy a 10-rupee coconut to offer the Devi, it’s required of all, he said. Moan.

I was lead past all the queue into the tiny cave opening (naturally formed), where you crawl through the cave, wade doubled-over through ice cold water (people, of course, in front and behind you), and finally up some stairs to a tiny “room” where three rocks are worshipped as Saraswati (goddess of knowledge and learning, consort of Brahma, the creator), Lakshmi (goddess of prosperity, consort of Vishnu the preserver) and Durga (consort of Siva, the destroyer). In addition, there are many idols of the goddesses, on the “alter.” The guy explained to me all the symbolism etc., which I mostly already knew.